Admittedly, I haven't read the article yet but still wanted to make a small point: In both conventional and 'ecological' wine production, wineries have to use different sprays to keep off fungis that destroy the wines. Convetional wineries use fungicides while ecolgical ones have to spray much more often, mostly using materials like copper. This is at least true for Europe after certain fungi were imported from Asia and America during the Renaissance where the local grape varieties are naturally resistant. There are fungi-resistant varieties which are crossings between European and Asian/American varieties that try to keep the taste but (mostly) eliminate the need for spraying. Had the chance to taste some local varitieties, and they were (for my amateur taste buds) wondeful.

https://www.piwi-international.de/en/information-en.html